CenterPoint Crank Cocking Devices
CenterPoint compound crossbows run draw weights in the 185 to 200 pound range, and how you cock one matters for more than your shoulders. The argument for a crank is usually made as an effort argument. The better argument is consistency: a cocking device that pulls the string evenly seats it the same way every shot, and that shows up on the target.
Why Cocking Method Affects Accuracy
If the string is drawn even slightly off-centre, it sits marginally differently in the latch, and the bolt leaves with a marginally different amount of energy on each side. At 20 yards you will not notice. At 40 yards it shows up as vertical spread that no amount of scope adjustment will fix, because the problem is not where the bow is pointed - it is what the bow is doing at release.
This is why hand-cocking a 185 pound crossbow is a bad idea even for people strong enough to do it. It is not the weight, it is that no two hand-pulls are identical. A rope cocker halves the felt weight and pulls both sides together. A crank does the same thing and removes the strength element entirely.
The CenterPoint Options
CenterPoint sells two cocking devices on Amazon under its own brand:
- Power Draw Crossbow Crank. The general-purpose CenterPoint crank and by a wide margin the most-reviewed CenterPoint accessory available. This is the default answer for most of the line.
- Wrath 430 Silent Cranking Device. Model-specific to the Wrath 430, and built around being quiet rather than merely mechanical. Worth the premium if you cock in a treestand with animals nearby, which is exactly the moment a ratcheting crank announces you.
Some CenterPoint packages ship with a crank already fitted - the AT400 crank-assist package is one - so check what your bow came with before buying. A second crank is not useful.
Popular options on Amazon
Prices change often - check the current price on Amazon.




When a Rope Cocker Is Enough
A rope cocker is a simple pulley: two hooks, a cord and two handles. It roughly halves the felt draw weight and, critically, pulls both sides of the string evenly. For a lot of owners that is genuinely all that is needed.
The case for staying with a rope:
- It weighs almost nothing and lives in a pocket
- There is nothing to break or jam
- It is a fraction of the price of a crank
- It is fast - a crank takes noticeably longer to wind
The case for upgrading to a crank: shoulder or back problems, a draw weight at the top of the range, cocking in a confined treestand where you cannot get the leverage a rope needs, or simply wanting the cocking stroke taken out of the equation entirely.
Fit Before You Buy
Cranks are not universal. They mount to the stock, so fit depends on your stock design rather than on the bow's speed rating, and a crank sold as compatible with one CenterPoint may not mount to another. Check the listing against your specific model, and check whether your stock has the mounting provision at all - some do not.
Also worth knowing before the first use: a crank has to be wound fully until the string latches, and then wound back out. Stopping partway and letting go is how people damage both the crank and themselves. Read the instructions once before you are standing in the dark with cold hands.
De-cocking
The part people forget. A cocked crossbow has to be un-cocked at the end of the day, and on most CenterPoint models the answer is to shoot a bolt into a target rather than to attempt to release the string by hand. Carry a de-cocking bolt for exactly that purpose and shoot it into something safe.
Some cranks support controlled de-cocking by winding backwards - check whether yours does before assuming it. Attempting to hand-release a latched 185 pound crossbow is one of the genuinely dangerous things you can do with one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a crank for a CenterPoint crossbow?
Will the Power Draw crank fit my model?
Is a silent crank worth it?
How do I de-cock a CenterPoint crossbow?
Ready to check the latest price?
Check the Power Draw crank on Amazon